Blog

Western Montana isn’t a playground for the unprepared. Whether you’re navigating the tight timber crawls of the Bitterroot or pushing through the slush in the Seeley Lake area, your rig’s drivetrain is the only thing standing between a legendary weekend and an expensive call to a recovery rig.

Most guys think “upgrading” means slapping on the biggest tires that fit and hitting the gas. That’s a one-way ticket to a snapped axle. Drivetrain upgrades are a game of physics and math, not just looks. If you want a rig that actually performs, you need to avoid these seven common pitfalls.

1. Putting 37s on Stock Axles (The “Mall Crawler” Snap)

It happens every season. A truck rolls into our shop with 37-inch tires and a Dana 30 front axle that looks like a wishbone. Your stock axles were engineered for stock tires. When you increase the tire size and weight, you exponentially increase the leverage and stress on your axle shafts.

The Technical Term: Spline Count
The “spline count” refers to the number of grooves at the end of the axle shaft that mate with the differential. A higher spline count generally means a thicker, stronger shaft that can handle more torque without shearing.

The Fix:
If you’re going big on rubber, you need to go big on iron. Upgrade to heavy-duty chrome-moly axle shafts or consider a full axle swap (like a Dana 60) if you’re planning on serious rock crawling. At Way Maker Offroad, we specialize in strengthening your foundation before you add the weight.

2. Ignoring Your Gear Ratios

Do you feel like your truck is “hunting” for gears on the highway? Or maybe it feels like a slug when you’re trying to climb a steep Montana grade? That’s because you didn’t regear. When you put on larger tires, you effectively change the final drive ratio, making your engine work significantly harder.

The Technical Term: Gear Ratio
This is the number of times your driveshaft must rotate to turn your wheels once (e.g., 4.10:1). A higher numerical ratio (like 4.88 or 5.13) provides more mechanical advantage, which is necessary for turning larger tires.

The Fix:
Regear your differentials to match your tire size. This restores your power band, saves your transmission from overheating, and even helps your fuel economy. Check out our performance drivetrain upgrades to find the right ratio for your setup.

3. Prioritizing Lightbars Over Lockers

We get it, LED lightbars look cool in the parking lot. But in the mud and snow of Western Montana, a lightbar won’t help you when one tire is spinning uselessly in the air. Open differentials send power to the path of least resistance (the tire with zero traction).

The Technical Term: Locker (Differential Locker)
A locker is a device that locks both wheels on an axle together. This forces them to turn at the same speed, regardless of traction, ensuring you always have power where you need it.

The Fix:
Stop buying “fluff” and invest in a selectable locker (like an ARB Air Locker or an Eaton ELocker). This gives you the best of both worlds: smooth handling on the pavement and unstoppable traction on the trail. Browse our accessories and equipment to see our locker options.

4. The “Budget” Lift Kit Disaster

A cheap lift kit is the most expensive thing you’ll ever buy. Why? Because budget kits usually only provide spacers and ignore the rest of the suspension geometry. This leads to the infamous “death wobble,” poor braking, and accelerated wear on your universal joints (U-joints).

The Fix:
Go for a complete system, not just a “leveling” puck. A proper truck lift kit installation includes corrected control arms, track bars, and extended brake lines. This ensures your drivetrain angles stay within a safe operating range.

5. Neglecting CV and Driveshaft Angles

When you lift a vehicle, you increase the angle between the transfer case and the differentials. If those angles get too steep, your CV (constant velocity) joints or U-joints will vibrate, bind, and eventually explode.

The Fix:
For IFS (Independent Front Suspension) trucks, a differential drop kit is often necessary to flatten those CV angles. For solid-axle rigs, you might need a “double-cardan” driveshaft or a transfer case clocking ring. If you hear a “chirp-chirp” or feel a vibration under your seat, schedule a service immediately before a driveshaft decides to exit the vehicle.

6. Mixing and Matching Gear Brands

“I found a cheap ring and pinion on eBay for the front, and I’ll get a good one for the back.” Stop right there. Different manufacturers use different tolerances and heat-treating processes. Mixing brands or, worse, using mismatched ratios between the front and rear axles will literally tear your transfer case apart the moment you shift into 4WD.

The Fix:
Buy your gear sets as a matched pair from a reputable shop. As one of the premier 4×4 off road shops in the region, we ensure that every component is compatible and shimmed to perfection for maximum longevity.

7. The “Install and Forget” Fallacy

Drivetrain upgrades aren’t “set it and forget it.” New gears require a break-in period (usually 500 miles of heat cycling) and an immediate fluid change to remove any metal shavings. If you skip this, your expensive new gears will be toast within a month.

The Fix:
Stick to a routine maintenance schedule. Check your differential fluid for water contamination after every deep water crossing and grease your U-joints regularly. Montana winters are brutal on moving parts; don’t let a $15 seal ruin a $2,000 axle.

Ready to Build a Rig That Lasts?

At Way Maker Offroad, we don’t just bolt parts on; we build systems that survive the harshest conditions Western Montana can throw at them. From Cummins engine rebuilds to precision gear installs, we are your go-to western montana 4×4 service.

Don’t wait until you’re stranded on a mountain pass. Contact us today to plan your drivetrain upgrades the right way.

Visit the Shop: Way Maker Offroad Home
See Our Work: Gallery